Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate. In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery.

I was talking about the jewellery of Elizabeth Taylor recently. Her whole collection made over $100 million when it came up for auction ten years ago. From pearls to diamonds, sapphires to emeralds, she knew how to collect jewellery. Married eight times to seven different men, Taylor was never going to be short of jewellery, be it engagement rings or for Christmas presents.

Rubies featured heavily in her collection and in her 1968 Christmas stocking was a gorgeous ruby and diamond ring. Richard Burton had always said to her, “One day I’m going to find you the most perfect ruby in the world”. The ring in question featured an 8.24 carat ruby and was known as the ‘Puertas ruby, diamond and gold ring‘. It sold for over $4 million at the sale. Ruby is the stone of passion and perfect as a Christmas gift.

If you have a passion for rubies you certainly don’t need to pay over $4 million for one. Whether your budget is a couple of hundred or a few thousand, always look for a bright and lively stone that doesn’t have surface scratches. As with the late Victorian ring illustrated, a few coloured stones give a real impact to the design.

A Late Victorian Ruby and Diamond Ring

On one occasion Taylor received a pair of Georgian earrings as a Christmas stocking gift. She had spotted them on a shopping trip months before with Mike Todd, but had decided against them because they were set with paste and not diamonds. Todd secretly bought the earrings and had all the paste stones replaced with diamonds – now that is a thoughtful gesture.

Diamond earrings are a perfect gift at Christmas and even more gorgeous when paired with pearls. At Elstob & Elstob auctioneers early this year, there were a pair of beautiful pearl and diamond ear pendants in the form of acorns, pictured top. The acorn is a symbol of life, fertility, and immortality. As the seed of the great Oak tree, the acorn symbolizes potential and strength. What a perfect gift to receive at Christmas as we head into the New Year.

Mistletoe Costume Jewellery Brooch

For those true romantics, jewellery themed around mistletoe is a must. Mistletoe has a great history. It is associated with ancient Rome which had many different festivals to celebrate the gods. One of them was the Saturnalia held from 17-23 December. This festival was in honour of Saturn, the god of agriculture, seedtime and harvest. The mistletoe was hung up during the Saturnalia festival and it was traditional to kiss under the mistletoe as it was seen as a symbol of fertility. Each fruit on the mistletoe branch has a cross symbol and this has become associated with a kiss. Gifts would be given on 23 December, unlike our traditional 25th.

Jewellery doesn’t always have to be made of precious gems and metals. The image above is of a pretty costume piece of mistletoe jewellery set with faux pearls. Lovely condition and many costume pieces can be a little as £10-20.

If Christmas jumpers aren’t your thing then maybe a Christmas jewel is!

Merry Christmas.

Read More: 

• Stray Jewels: The art of archeological inspired jewellery
• Stray Jewels: Jewels with the James Bond seal of approval

Stray Jewels is a monthly column written by BBC Antiques Roadshow jewellery specialist, Susan Rumfitt. Susan started her career working for Christie’s auctioneers in Glasgow before establishing her own jewellery department, The Gallery in Harrogate.

In 2006, she joined the Antiques Roadshow and has since built up an extensive knowledge of and passion for fine jewellery. 

A bit of sparkle is a must at Christmas. Elizabeth Taylor was surprised to find a pair of Georgian diamond ear pendants in her stocking one Christmas morning – a present from Mike Todd. Elizabeth had spotted the earrings in an antique shop but didn’t want them as they were set with paste (a fantastic Georgian invention to imitate diamonds, but not quite sparkly enough for Elizabeth!). Todd bought them, had a jeweller unset the paste and set the mounts with diamonds, and Elizabeth was naturally very happy!

With Christmas stockings in mind, I looked back through various local jewellery auctions this year and considered what I might like to appear in my stocking on Christmas Day. There were lots of pieces, but I have to narrow it down  – so here are my top three…

Enamel Tiger Orchid Brooch

Enamel Tiger Orchid Brooch, by Tiffany & Co.

Without doubt I wouldn’t reject the fantastic Enamel Tiger Orchid Brooch by Tiffany & Co,  which featured in Elstob & Elstob‘s sale back in April. Tiffany is undoubtedly a name that shouts style, elegance and sophistication. They were the first to introduce ‘catalogue shopping’, with their ‘Blue Book’. Today we are used to catalogue and online shopping but back in the C19th century this was a first. Today their ‘Blue Book’ is a show case for exclusive jewellery. So why the Orchid Brooch in my top three? A limited number were produced for Tiffany by the renowned jeweller Paulding Farnham and such brooches were exhibited at the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle, one of the most important exhibitions at the time. The skill of the jeweller to create the amazing detail shown in the flower just cannot be beaten. Enamelling is a specialised skill and this brooch is one to admire.  Only 25 of these brooches were produced and this one made £50,000 – a record breaking price…

Pink Sapphire and Diamond Brooch

Pink Sapphire and Diamond Brooch.

At a Tennants Auctioneers jewellery sale in November I particularly liked a Pink Sapphire and Diamond Brooch circa 1925. The pink sapphires have a great liveliness to them and as a stone that represents devotion, this is a brooch that I would adore to have in my collection. The 1920’s is Art Deco era – a time of fun, contrasts of colour in fashion and jewellery design. This was a period to express new ideas but at times the style still drew on the elegance of the Edwardian Period. This can be really appreciated in this brooch. Many say brooches are out of fashion – I say definitely not!  The hammer came down at £3,200 on this beautiful brooch and I think worth every penny.

Enamel Owl Brooch

Enamel Owl Brooch, by David Anderson.

Last week Elstob & Elstob had a lovely sale of jewellery and amongst many great pieces the one I would like to make an appearance in my Christmas stocking is the enamel owl brooch by David Anderson, a renowned jeweller from Norway. Early 20th Century Scandinavian jewellery appeals to many. George Jensen is perhaps a more popular name, but David Anderson is becoming highly collectible. His enamel work is fun and exciting. His work is a must in any jewellery collection and a wise owl as part of a collection is a winner. Although big in character the hammer price for the owl brooch was modest £130.

My next column will be on 2 January when I will look forward to sharing my top tips for jewellery collecting and what to look out for in 2021.