This article is sponsored by Deliveree
Stray Foodie reviews are brought to you by Deliveree, and written by Michelin-starred chef Frances Atkins. Frances independently chooses which restaurants she will visit. This month, Frances visits Cardamom Black in central Harrogate.
Having spent four consecutive years in India cooking with some of the world’s greatest chefs at sophisticated dinners for charity, I came to marvel at the joy of their cuisine.
The combination of texture, colour and warmth is unique. Personally, I tend to err away from very hot and spicy foods, having considered them in the past to kill flavour. I have been wrong. It is all about technique and I would go so far as to say there isn’t another country that produces such flavour in their food made from very little.
So it was with great pleasure that I dined at Cardamom Black in Harrogate with friends. I was at first in awe of the size of the menu! Suitable for everyman’s palate but hard to execute, but they did it.
Whether you want a quick curry after a good night out, British style or you are wanting a more academic supper, it is there for the asking. Being into the creation of Vegan and Vegetarian food at the moment I decided to go with their sensational platter of vegetables. Stuffed, fried and unique – all my party had a great time sampling these delicacies.
My friends had two chicken dishes, one mild and one hot, they were very different and once again all down to the seasoning. The preparation of the rice to accompany them was sensational. One with Lime and Coriander and one with Tamarind. Beautiful flavour. The only slight difficulty I might have had was getting all these flavours together to compliment the chosen dish. It took some degree of concentration. Having said that, the true Indian style of service was friendly and informative and made you feel at ease.
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I listened to another guest on the night we were there who boasted he had tried every dish on the menu! He must have been going there for a very long time and he was a very happy man! 
Like all my Indian experiences, Cardamom Black reflects colour, warmth and happiness.
Well worth a visit. All taking place in a converted Methodist Church and theatre. It certainly takes central stage in Harrogate.
Star Rating: 4. This is a place to watch!
Stray Foodie reviews are written by Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins. In 1997, Frances opened the Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge, where she was the owner for 20 years. During her ownership, she held her Michelin-star status for 16 of those years. Frances now runs Paradise at Daleside Nurseries.
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Harrogate restaurants battle for survival
Harrogate’s highly competitive restaurant scene is preparing for an announcement this week from government on when restaurants are allowed to reopen but the financial scars of lockdown could mean some don’t survive.
David Straker, co-owner of popular Harrogate restaurant William & Victoria told the Stray Ferret that the situation is perilous for many restaurants in the town.
He said:
“It’s hard. It’s really, really hard. We’re fortunate here as we own our property and we have a fantastic loyal clientele which is absolutely paramount to a business.”
William & Victoria received a government grant and has taken advantage of the Bounce Back Loan scheme. From Thursday to Sunday it has also been providing a takeaway service which Mr Straker said has helped keep the restaurant afloat.
Mr Straker added that Harrogate restaurants were already having a “hard ride” before lockdown and many could cease trading the longer they are not able to open at full capacity. He said running a restaurant is all about “getting as many people through the door as possible”.
David Straker, William & Victoria.
He added:
“The streets in Harrogate aren’t paved with gold. It’s hard work. There are big rents and they need a big turnover.
“We’re all fighting. At the minute, it’s about survival. That’s what it’s all about.”
Nick Rahman, owner of Cardamom Black on Cheltenham Parade, told the Stray Ferret that due to the size of his property he wasn’t eligible to apply for a government grant of up to £25,000. He said this has created haves and have-nots in the town.
He said:
“There are two stark realities [for restaurants] and I’m on the dark side of it. All of my rivals are doing full fit-outs and decorating but it’s not something we could do. It’s been really tough for us.”
“We’re in a really bad position and we’ve had a big loss over the last 12 weeks. We’re just trying to survive. We just hope we can make that money back quickly.”
Cardamom Black is preparing to re-open on July 4th but Mr Rahman said extra cleaning and social distancing measures are “huge, significant costs.”
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Sara Ferguson, owner of Sasso on Princes Square, said because of economies of scale, the larger restaurant chains in the town have been able to better protect themselves against the losses incurred by lockdown.
She said:
“It gets tougher all the time to be an independent”
Like William & Victoria and Cardamom Black, Sasso has been providing a takeaway service to customers throughout lockdown. Not only has it provided a vital revenue stream it has been “psychologically” important to Ms Ferguson as it has continued the relationship with loyal customers. She said it’s important for the town that independent restaurants survive the months ahead.
She added:
“The more independents there are, the more vibrant we are as a town and more diverse our offering is but there may well be restaurants unable to go forward”.