A curious tradition dating back seven centuries took place in Masham today when, for the first time in a generation, an apprentice barrel maker became a cooper.
Euan Findlay, who started work at Theakston Brewery five years ago, was centre stage for the historic ‘trussing in’ ceremony.
Fellow coopers from across the country gathered in Masham to witness Mr Findlay’s coronavirus-delayed initiation into the Federation of Coopers.
The event, which dates back to the 14th century, last took place more than 20 years ago. It rarely happens because Theakston is one of only two breweries in the UK to still have an in-house barrel maker.
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Most breweries opt for the more modern steel containers these days but Theakston still uses the traditional wooden barrel for its Old Peculier beer.
Starting with the “ringing of axes” the coopers got the barrel into shape with hammers and metal rings before placing Mr Findlay inside.
The last trussing in ceremony happened more than 20 years ago.
They then poured beer and any rubbish lying around over his head before placing the barrel on its side and rolling him around while still inside.
Apprentice Mr Findlay was then unceremoniously sacked in front of a crowd before being immediately re-employed as a fully-qualified cooper.
To celebrate the ritual, the brewery launched Stave Bender, a new pale ale. Mr Findlay had the honour of pouring the first pint.
Talking to the Stray Ferret after the ordeal, he said:
“It was very, very hot to start with. Then it got very loud as they started hammering. They then chucked the rubbish in so it got very cold and messy.
“When they started rolling it around like a washing machine I was just trying to brace for dear life. But now I am onto the next stage of my career.
“The plan now is for me to get an apprentice and pass this tradition onto the next generation.”
Simon Theakston, the joint managing director of TR Theakston Ltd, told the Stray Ferret:
There’s something in the water as Harrogate brews up for Beer Week“Well you have watched a very unique and rare ceremony. So now he has finished his apprenticeship his fellow coopers give him a tough old time.
“This is a rite of passage. We are very proud of making our excellent beer and making the casks that it goes into.”
As the craft beer explosion continues in the UK, Harrogate is set to launch its first ever Beer Week. The town is firmly at the forefront of the industry, boasting five breweries in the HG postcode alone.
So what makes Harrogate beer so special? There’s definitely something in the water..
Harrogate is undeniably famous for its water. Its development as a prosperous and flourishing spa town dates back to the 16th century.
William Slingsby discovered the first spring in 1571 in the area now known as High Harrogate. It was named the Tewit Well Spring and the water was found to be medicinal. People, rich and poor, began to flock to the town to test the curative powers of the waters.
Perhaps it is therefore unsurprising to learn that the district’s water – and Yorkshire water as a whole – is perfect for brewing some of the best craft beers in the country.
More breweries have been opening in Yorkshire than anywhere else in the UK, including London.
And Harrogate now boasts five breweries within the HG postcode – internationally-renowned Roosters; rising star Harrogate Brewing; Turning Point, which chose Knaresborough for its expansion two years ago; Daleside, the town’s longest-standing local brewery; and Cold Bath Brewing, which is making waves across the town with its beers, bar and clubhouse space.
The brewery at Roosters Brewing Co.
To celebrate the town’s growing brewing culture, as well as the bars, pubs and restaurants which support the breweries, this month Harrogate is launching its first ever Beer Week from September 20 to 26.
Harrogate beer communications specialist Rachel Auty, who founded Women on Tap and has secured backing from Harrogate BID to help bring the idea to fruition, said:
“I have been told by breweries that Yorkshire is a key place for brewing because of the water. Harrogate is known for its water so it’s a nice link. It is known for its water history and heritage and it is now attracting breweries to the area.
It [Beer Week] is something we have wanted to do for quite a few years now. We were hoping to get it off the ground las year, but Covid put a stop to holding any events.
“I have seen the beer scene in the town explode over the last seven or eight years. It has got really interesting. We have really exciting beer here actually being brewed.”
With special beer weeks being held in places like Leeds, Manchester and Sheffield, Rachel, who is delivering the event under her specialist food and drink brand TASTE, said Harrogate’s beer scene was strong enough to rival the cities. It’s thought Harrogate is the only town in the country set to host such an event.
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A programme of special events and initiatives will be hosted at bars, brewery taps, and eateries across Harrogate. The event will culminate in a big beer weekend in the town centre. Other features on the programme will include an ‘Indie Beer Trail’, live local music, and a home brewing competition, with some big names in UK beer heading to Harrogate to host a range of talks and tastings.
Guest headliners include award-winning beer writer Pete Brown presenting ‘Craft: An Argument’ at Cold Bath Clubhouse, a beer tasting and reading with author Matthew Curtis at Roosters taproom, a Conversation on Harrogate Beer with award-winning writer Melissa Cole and Discovering Harrogate Beer with beer sommelier Annabel Smith also at the Cold Bath Clubhouse.
And for those who have ever imagined beer and donuts as the perfect combination, there will even be a chance to try sour and stout-filled doughnuts at The Tap on Tower Street, which has commissioned Harrogate business Doe to create the unique flavour especially for the event.
A collaboration between all the local breweries will also see a special beer produced for Beer Week – a West Coast IPA brewed at Turning Point.
Co-owner of the Cold Bath Brewing Co Jim Mossman, who also sits on the board of Harrogate BID, said:
“I have been very receptive to the idea of putting something positive together with regards to an event in Harrogate, promoting not only breweries in the town, but all the local great independent bars and restaurants as well.
Harrogate is internationally famous for the quality of its water, so it’s by no coincidence you see some great breweries and gin distilleries in this geographical area. They are using it to make quality beer and gins.
We are hosting a series of events in Cold Bath Club House and we are really looking forward to a number of things, from just generating community spirit and bringing venues together, which is great after 15 months of the pandemic – from live music events, to some really credible industry speakers coming to town to do beer tastings and talks.”
Jim said the Harrogate brewing scene was mainly about craft beer, which has seen an explosion in the UK, including lager, pilsner, pale ale and West Coast IPA, but said it was impossible to choose a favourite due to the vast amount of different brewing processes and flavours.
However, he said Cold Bath Brewery was in the process of launching new barrel-aged beers. These are beers that have been aged in oak barrels, allowing the wood to impart extra flavour.
He said:
“We have launched a barrel-aged process in terms of flavours you can create, for example we are using old bourbon barrels.”
Cold Bath Brewing Co.
Pubs, bars and eateries taking part in Harrogate Beer Week include:
Turning Point Brewery and Taproom
Masham brewery brings back tours after 18 monthsA brewery in Masham has started offering tours again, 18 months after coronavirus restrictions forced them to stop.
Black Sheep Brewery has announced the tours will return on Wednesday next week. The last one took place on March 19 last year.
Tours last about an hour and run daily at 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm and 3.30pm. They cost £9.95 for an adult, £8.50 for seniors and students and £4.95 for children.
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The tour starts with a look at the history of the company, including a short video featuring its founders Paul and Rob Theakston.
They left Masham’s other famous brewery, Theakston, to set up Black Sheep.
The guide then takes people to the brewhouse to show how the beer is made before finishing at the bar.
Spaces are limited so Black Sheep advises people to book in advance by calling 01765 680101 or 01765 680100 for large group bookings.
Continuing the best-known name in the Harrogate districtThere are few better known names in the Harrogate district than Theakston.
Robert Theakston started brewing beer in Masham in 1827 and his great-great grandson Simon continues the tradition today.
Simon is joint managing director of T & R Theakston, one of two major breweries in the picturesque market town. His cousin, Paul, is in charge of the other one — Black Sheep Brewery.
Despite his strong Masham connections, Mr Theakston is well placed to appraise recent developments in the wider Harrogate district: he lives near Boroughbridge, went to school in Harrogate and represented the Conservatives on Harrogate Borough Council for four terms. He was also chairman of Yorkshire Agricultural Society, the agricultural charity that organises the Great Yorkshire Show, from 2008 to 2016.
But nothing in his long career prepared him for the potentially ruinous overnight impact of covid when the first lockdown began in March. He says;
“We had cellars full of beer that people couldn’t buy and ended up pouring it away.
“Overnight we lost 80% of business. That required us to rethink our business model, baton down the hatches and put ourselves in a position where we could survive as long as possible.”
The furlough scheme saved jobs and the company rapidly converted its visitor centre at the brewery into a fulfilment centre for online orders — something a company that prides itself on tradition had not overly pursued until then. He says:
“Online orders have gone up by a factor of 100, albeit from a modest base.”
Family tradition
The visitor centre is due to reopen on June 21 if the lingering restrictions on pubs are lifted. Monday’s decision will be critical for the industry. Mr Theakston, who is married with two grown-up children, says:
“It’s nice having people going into gardens and seated at tables but it’s much better when people can move freely in pubs.”
Nevertheless, so far the company has survived covid with its 35 staff still intact. It seems a surprisingly low number of employees for an organisation that sells into 20 countries but the business model involves collaborating with other firms, such as Heineken, which handles distribution.
Mr Theakston describes the company as “a medium-sized traditional family brewing company.” And, for all the difficulties of the past year, he remains optimistic.
“Our industry has been through difficulties in the past. We’ve come through two world wars, revolution in Europe, the great crash of the 1930s and all sorts of issues since the Second World War and it just goes to show the robustness of what we do.
“As long as individuals want to meet other people, the role of the pub will continue to be the centre of society.”
Local politics
The future for Harrogate Borough Council, however, is less secure. The local authority, on which he represented Harlow Moor until 2018, is set to be abolished as part of the national government’s devolution agenda. Mr Theakston supports the single council model for North Yorkshire championed by North Yorkshire County Council rather than the east-west split favoured by his former council colleagues in Harrogate. He explains:
“North Yorkshire County Council currently provides about 80% of our services so it wouldn’t be a massive change for it to pick up the pieces. I’m not a fan of lots of layers of bureaucracy.”
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Harrogate Borough Council is pursuing numerous active travel plans, such as the £7.9m Station Gateway project and the pedestrianisation of James Street, to reduce traffic and encourage people to walk and cycle. The plans have proved controversial — does he support them?
“I don’t want to see Harrogate being completely pedestrianised because it will end up like any other town in the country. The idea of being able to pop into town is appealing to people like the elderly. Let’s have a bit of pedestrianisation but not lose the ability to drive into town.
“Harrogate’s such a special town and everything we did during my time on the council was to maintain it as special.”
It has been a difficult year for another organisation close to Mr Theakston’s heart — Yorkshire Agricultural Society — which decided to proceed with the Great Yorkshire Show next month when many other events have been cancelled. Was he surprised?
“The Yorkshire Agricultural Society is nothing if not pragmatic. They will be responding to the demands of exhibitions and members of the public who want to go. It’s more than an agricultural show — it’s our county show.”
Crime and cricket
The Theakston name has also become synonymous with the annual crime writing festival organised by the arts charity Harrogate International Festivals. Under its sponsorship, the festival brings many of the leading names of the genre to the town each year.
Arts and brewing may seem an unlikely match but Mr Theakston talks of beer “providing the social lubricant that lets people enjoy being with other people” and the ventures the company supports also encourage people to mingle convivially.
Recently it has also sponsored poet Ben Taylor, also known as Yorkshire Prose, to wax lyrical about the a pint being a metaphor for social interaction.
Mr Theakston is a huge cricket lover so it’s perhaps no coincidence his company sponsors the Nidderdale Amateur Cricket League and the annual National Village Cup in which some 340 villages compete for the chance to play in the final at Lord’s.
It’s little wonder the name Theakston perhaps vies with Bettys as the most well known in the district — and at least we know for certain the Theakstons exist.
There was a time when its familiarity may have faded. The family relinquished control of the business in the 1990s before buying it back in 2003, and Mr Theakston pledges it will remain in the family, in the heart of Masham.
Can he foresee the day when the business no longer consumes his professional life?
District breweries ready to deliver as bars reopen“I haven’t thought too much about when I retire. It’s still a huge passion.”
Breweries across the Harrogate district are revving up their supply chains for bars and restaurants ahead of the reopening on Monday.
The closure of hospitality meant many local brewers moved their focus towards online sales and targeted people enjoying a drink or two in their gardens during lockdown.
But from Monday, large orders are set to ramp up once again as restaurant bookings soar to satisfy eager customers.
Aron McMahon, co-owner of Turning Point Brewery in Knaresborough, was “amazed” after orders returned to pre-covid numbers. He said:
“We’ve definitely had an upturn in orders for kegs and casks, which is great. It’s just great to be brewing casks again after not doing it for so long.
“Over lockdown we were delivering kegs and casks every couple of weeks but now with the reopening it’s much more frequent. It’s amazing – orders for next week look like they did pre-covid.”
The rise in orders also means the business can look ahead to bringing staff back to full-time hours.
Currently most of them are on flexi-furlough, but Mr McMahon is hopeful that if the roadmap stays on track, all employees will be back to full-time hours by the end of the year.
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Similarly, in Harrogate, Roosters Brewery has also seen a rise in orders due to the reopening.
Ian Fozard, director at the brewery, said:
Knaresborough brewery enjoys lockdown sales boost“We’ve had nothing substantial, but orders are coming in and we are very encouraged by what we have seen so far. It’s definitely a step forward.
“We are expecting more orders in the coming weeks, but we won’t know the extent of the damage to some businesses just yet.”
Turning Point Brew Co in Knaresborough has seen home deliveries soar during lockdown.
The brewery had always accepted online orders but received as few as “three over a few weeks” prior to lockdown, according to co-owner Aron McMahon.
But with more and more people craving their favourite beers when pubs were closed, home delivery orders rocketed to 200 each week.
Now the company has resumed supplying local bars and pubs, it is looking at its business model to see how it can sustain the increased number of home deliveries.
Mr McMahon said:
“Towards the end of lockdown the home delivery trade and our normal trade sales were neck and neck, whereas normally our home deliveries are much less.
“It definitely helped us big time. The first few weeks we really didn’t know what was going to happen without pubs. Before lockdown we had a few orders here and there – nothing really. Then over lockdown we were reached 200 orders a week!
“We also got a lot closer to our drinkers, which was great. Previously we only really knew our business contacts. Now it’s all about balancing out each side of the business.”
The brewery has quickly filled the space in its Knaresborough unit since moving less than a year ago.
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The brewery moved to Knaresborough in the past year after out-growing its previous site in Kirkbymoorside, Ryedale.
Covid delayed the opening of its taproom for customers.
Mr McMahon said:
“We opened the taproom for the first time about a week ago. It’s been a bit of a challenge but it’s gone smooth so far. All orders are done on an app and the tables are nicely spaced out outside so we’ve had no issues.”
The brewery is also raising funds for local charity Henshaws by donating 10p from the sale of cans of the pale ale Perpetual Dawn.
Knaresborough Delivers scheme puts £50,000 into local economyKnaresborough Delivers continues to grow as it changes its focus to give more back to local businesses and encourage people to shop local.
The scheme was set up to help local businesses sell their products online during the pandemic. It allowed customers to order food parcels and greeting cards amongst other products from the comfort of their homes.
But as lockdown eases its focus has shifted to putting more money back into the local economy. The online shop will continue to serve local people but it will now give back 90% of the price to the local business.
Previously 30% was taken to cover the website and delivery costs but now the customer will pay a small delivery charge. This ensures the local business receives as much profit as they can.
The scheme’s efforts are appreciated by local businesses as they have found a new platform to sell their products. Aron McMahon from Turning Point brewery said:
“Knaresborough Delivers was a revelation for us, we had an online site but we didn’t have the human resources to run it and as a new business to the area people still wouldn’t know us. We’ve done really good out of this and its help us get closer to our local customers which is really important to us and we hope it can keep going.”
Ashleigh Lambert, co-founder of Knaresborough Delivers told The Stray Ferret:
“We are going to start doing recipe boxes, cocktail boxes and protein boxes by working with local chefs. Since the start of lockdwon we have put £50,000 into the local economy and supported 15 local businesses and given work to three local poeple who have been furloughed or out of work. The new pricing strategy means 90% goes straight back to the business and the other 10% will be used to cover our costs.”
The scheme has found ways to support several businesses in the area with themed boxes including afternoon tea.
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James Hirst, owner of Hirsts Bakery who also uses the platform, said:
“It was a really nice addition to what we were doing in the shop, it helped us still get our products to those customers who couldn’t come out.”
Knaresborough Delivers is a scheme that has found a way to prosper through the pandemic and hopes to continue supporting the town’s economy. It plans to move to bigger premises to allow people to have a shop to use as well as the online site.